Dorothy pretty much insisted I try the
Timmermans Oude Kriek from 2013. I didn't take much coercion, having previously enjoyed the aged Lambic and Geuze from the same house, one which is rarely counted among the great lambic producers; a little unfairly, I think. The Kriek did not disappoint. A sharp dry aroma is how it introduces itself, suggesting vinegar for an instant, before allowing mellower mature fruit through. The flavour performs a similar double act, beginning on a throat-scorching, enamel-stripping acidity which is quickly tempered by smoothly tannic cherry skins, creating an effect similar to a super-classy Italian grape ale. This is quite a workout for the senses and might be somewhat divisive, but it comes with my recommendation, as well as Dorothy's.
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Just to fling another beer in the same broad genre in here, I encountered Boon's
Lambiek Foeder No. 67 on keg at P. Mac's. Reviews of 97 and 104 in the series can be found
here, and I assume this is the same deal: unblended lambic taken from one of the huge numbered oak barrels at the Boon brewery in Lembeek. Research tells me it had been aged just two years, and it was a sufficient 6.5% ABV. It came out completely flat, and had an unusual thickness: none of the usual spritzy zip of young lambic. There's a heavy wax bitterness, balanced by an explosive gunpowder spicing, with just a twist of orange peel on the end. This is fantastically deep and complex, chewy and much less attenuated than normal. Dare I say balanced? Yeah, go on then.
As always, it just takes writing about a couple of classy lambics to make me want more. Still a bit early to be dipping into the current stash, though.