
Timothy Taylor has taken the odd step of turning a pre-existing beer into a brand extension. Once upon a time they had a dark ale called Ram Tam, the pumpclip featuring a hardworking labourer. More recently he has thrown away his cap, peeled off the false moustache and revealed himself to be the beer-pumping landlord of Landlord; Ram Tam now renamed Landlord Dark.
It's a fair move: Ram Tam was only ever Landlord with added caramel. It's just unusual to see a brewery admit it. It looks well, though. I particularly liked the yellowing nicotine colour of the head, resembling a strong and wholesome stout, even if the beer under consideration is only 4.1% ABV.
The aroma is sweet and fruity: lots of very obvious hard caramel, sitting next to softer plum and raisin. The flavour is rather less complex. I was hoping that Landlord + caramel would unlock some new dimension of taste, but I could not perceive anything other than a quite hop forward English bitter -- meadow blossoms and earthy minerality -- spiked with thick and gloopy treacle. It's sticky, not wholesome, and the two aspects don't meld well together. The label promised chocolate and roasted malt, like a proper dark ale, but the flavour doesn't deliver that. I'm curious as to what I would have thought of it before I knew how it was constructed, but now I'll never know.
It's not awful, by any means, and if you're a fan of bottled Landlord, there's plenty for you here, which is of course the point of brand extensions. I had no problem drinking through it but it left me hankering after something dense and dark and properly formulated.